Remove graphite shaft driver head

Remove your old graphite shaft. There are two ways to do this step. One way to loosen the shaft from the clubhead is to heat the hosel, or connector, of the clubhead with a blow torch until the epoxy that is used to bond them together becomes liquid.

Be sure that you wear protective glasses while doing this process. The second way is to cut the shaft right above the hosel of the clubhead, then use a drill to carefully remove the remaining pieces of the shaft from the hosel. This method is particularly helpful if you are working on a new Titleist or Nike driver that have clubheads made of titanium because the clubheads tend to diffuse the heat, making it more difficult to melt the epoxy.

Either way, after you have cleaned the hosel, squirt some acetone into the hosel to remove the remaining debris and grease. Prepare you new shaft. A graphite shaft has a protective coating, so you must remove it from the tip of the shaft by carefully peeling it off with a putty knife.

Then using sandpaper, rough up the tip so that it will bond tightly with the clubhead. If the inside of the hosel is smooth after you have cleaned it, use a wire drill bit to rough it up, as well. Put on you new graphite shaft. Graphite has to be pulled in as straight a line as possible, and that is next to impossible with the bar.

If you want to save the shaft, take it somewhere and get it pulled. I think I stand just as good a chance doing it by hand than I do with what is essentially a crowbar. Seems the best bet is a hydraulic puller, but that might be a waste of money for the few times perhaps only this one time I'll pull a shaft that isn't broken. Thanks for all the input. I don't have a puller, so would clamping the shaft in a vise, heating the head with a gun and pulling the head straight off work?

Also, I'd assume the best placement for the heat gun isn't right on the hosel, so where should I apply the heat so I don't a melt the tip of the shaft, b melt the paint off my driver and c be most effective to melt the epoxy? Many thanks in advance. The trick is to know how long to apply heat and when to start pulling. Heat is applied, as much as possible, ONLY to the portion of the hosel where the shaft is.

You need to be precise and quick because you want to start pulling when the epoxy has melted and not yet cooled enough to become hard again. You can learn how long to apply heat by practicing with old throwaway clubs. Be sure you have a thick fold of cloth to wrap the head in when you start pulling. It's more comfortable than the bare hand. G25 Put head in the vice. Grab the grip with your free hand and pull gently, Twist it gently and once it starts to move pull it out. I pulled a shaft once with a gas stove and an oven mitt..

Actually, I didn't, but not far off. I've actually pulled shafts before with no vice, no puller, and really nothing but a heat gun and a towel.

Heat the hosel up, rotating the club around to get it hot everywhere, and not just a spot.. Generally I've been lucky enough to know about how much heat, and how long before I can stop heating it, put the grip between my feet, and pull up on the head with a slight twist in ONE direction.

No back and forth here. One direction to break the initial lock and most of them come off so easy. Infact, I heat them up enough that I rarely ever have to put a towel on there to keep the heat off my hands at all.

No damage to the tips of the shaft, and I'm able to clean it all up, and re-shaft in minutes, again.. That said I rarely do club work, but in a pinch I've never had an issue at all with ANY work I've done, and I've done it for friends clubs and they are all still kickin!

I've pulled numerous graphite shafts out of drivers, FWs and hybrids. I've never used any kind of shaft extractor, aside from my hands, and I've only damaged one shaft.

And that was my fault for being to lazy and not cutting off the ferrule first. I've used butane plumbing torches, heat guns, even a butane cigar lighter once. I haven't tried anything yet. I also like the stand-up idea with the grip between the feet. These two are the leaders in the clubhouse. Thanks again for the input and ideas. I don't have a club builder per se in my town, and Dick's is 30 minutes away and I'd rather not go there in the first place unless I have no other options.

But I haven't ruined a shaft yet No back and forth. If it doesn't budge, more heat, don't twist it if you feel a ton of resistance.. Thats where you start to destroy the fibers of the graphite at the tip. Once it turns, it's loose and from there it's just a matter of getting it out of the head.

Wish you all the best. Ping G Max I haven't had an issue the handful of times I've done it. If it's an expensive shaft, I've always had it done at the OEM, or by a clubmaking pro.

A cheap shaft, that I may or may not ever use again? I don't see the harm, it's beats the idea of cutting it off and drilling it out. I really don't see how cutting the shaft out is better than pulling it using a heat gun. With the heat gun you, at minimum, have some chance of not ruining the shaft and unless you just sit there and cook the hell out of it you aren't going to ruin the head either and even if you do its purely cosmetic.

Taking a hacksaw to it guarantees the shaft is shot and drilling out the hosel presents all kinds of risks as well. I'm 1 for 2 on home-pulls. First one went perfectly. Heated with heat gun with shaft in the vice. Bar was wrapped with electrical tape to protect the shaft and hosel.

Used the bar to apply slight pressure at the hosel and it slipped right off. Second try was not so great. Lets just say I ended up having to drill out the shaft after I broke it.

Also, I always read NOT to twist it at all, in any direction! Its not worth it to do yourself without the proper tools and understanding. If the shaft of your golf club is bent or broken, do not discard the entire club. Instead, remove the clubhead from the damaged shaft and install it on a new one.

Disconnecting the golf club shaft from the head also allows you to try the latest shaft technology on the market without purchasing a whole new club.

You can also adjust the length of a golf club by changing out the shaft, which is helpful if you buy used clubs that may not be your exact size. Use a utility knife to scrape off the ferrule at the connection point between the shaft and the clubhead.

Scrape down toward the head and away from your body. Apply a heat gun to the hosel to melt the epoxy glue.